Infighting, Fragmentation and Fighting in the Tuxedo Business Could Hamper Comeback

By Paul Pannone

eWedNewz is watching a developing story with conflicting information to a recent resurgence of the men’s formal wear business. Tuxedo rentals have been in decline for over a decade and saw the closure of several founding companies including After Six.

 

When a customer walks into a tuxedo rental store they don’t know how old the garment is.

The original After Six company founded in 1902 made tuxedos in Philadelphia until it went out of business in 1993. The name bounced around the industry for decades after the original company closed and was even owned by the Allstate Insurance company (after Six 2 Baltimore 1994-1996) and the Sequa corporation (After Six 3 1996-2009), among other short-term ownership. What remains are products created years ago that still appear on many websites and showrooms across America, tainting the use of rented tuxedo.

 

According to IBISWorld spending is supposed to increase in various parts of wedding planning industries but the tuxedo business is expected to shrink in the next five-years.

 

51% of an ongoing poll so-far says the tuxedo rental industry is set for a comeback. Together with 26% who say the rental business is holding steady giving a 76% positive rating as opposed to 13% of respondents who feel the tuxedo rental business is dying; 3% say it’s already dead, giving a 16% negative view. 7% say they’re not sure.

Recent blogs by long-time wedding and event planners say the tuxedo business is due for a comeback, ready to service a new generation of users following young role model entertainers adorning the updated threads.

Forces opposing the comeback includes fragmentation in the tuxedo rental business. Lagging behind in technology,  presentation in stores and online. Word of suspect products that have been around for decades is reaching the consumer who are cautious and more aware about  what they’re wearing.  Internet searches for new items find updated styles by Vera Wang and Tony Bowls. New fit and softer fabrics attract new users who are willing to spend upwards of $200 dollars to rent the latest designs. Yet the traditional part of the tuxedo rental business remains stuck in price-wars fighting one another with old merchandise, old ideas and a very arrogant attitude.

Currently there are at least four recognized organizations in the tuxedo business: IFA, SIFA, Tuxedo Junction and SAVVI, each with their own membership, views and approach on marketing. A visit with some of the spokespeople in each of the organizations this week admitted personality conflicts and differences of opinion.

“That’s why there are so many different organizations in the business. There are some very strong personalities with prideful views who aren’t willing to work together,” said one member of the IFA, the original formal wear organization.

Quietly, each organization said they were formed to encourage manufacturers. In reality groups were formed to beat up manufacturers on price and getting them to sponsor outdated, unnecessary trade shows and offset  marketing/advertising expenses. Equally as quiet all groups say they’re focused on trying to keep pace with their biggest competitor.

Men’s Wearhouse hit a homerun with Vera Wang this season. A new arrangement brings the Calvin Klein brand exclusively to Men’s Wearhouse next year, after the tuxedo business did not (or could not) support the brand. eWedNewz watches as more announcements are made that can help the business– if retailers  realize the power of new, branded products are what customers are looking for– and don’t mind paying for them.

As far as IBISWorld data, eWedNewz got the company to re-visit flawed data given by the research firm to TheStreet.com that said Men’s Wearhouse rented one out of two tuxedos in the United States at the time of the story release in May, 2011.

 What do you think? Are tuxedo rentals back? Were they ever gone? Or are they ready to be buried?

 

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2013

Popular Brands compared to Unknown Names

By Paul Pannone

Growing pressure caused by challenging economic conditions force consumers who are trying to make ends meet to buy merchandise at lower prices. But when is a bargain not a bargain?

In an eWedNewz investigation experts warn about merchandise with little or no salable market. In the past consumers were less informed of materials and manufacturing methods. Today with the help of Social Media the word quickly spreads on products and services that do not meet the ever-growing demand of consumers.

“Basically, you want to buy only desirable merchandise. Some times merchandise shows up with closeout dealers because it wouldn’t sell in a store,” according to one expert.

Others agree saying as the notoriety of a brand name increases so does the standard of quality demands for fit, construction and overall performance expectations. But with the faltering economy the line of distinction between a world-class brand recognized by consumers and made-up, fictitious names can be easily mistaken by buyers who think they’re saving money when ordering merchandise.

Unknown brands use cheaper pricing to build their business while true brands leverage image and consumer demand to command higher pricing and higher margins for retailers, while delivering sustained quality assurance and value to consumers. It’s important to remember products bearing the name of a recognized brand known for quality in a variety of item translates into higher pricing power and ongoing ability to perform to everyone’s expectations.

According to Ask.Reference.com Brand is often the company name or logo referenced for a specific business. “Branding” is when their name, logo or company specific identifiers are strategically placed to better market their brand to the consuming public.

Vera Wang tops other more-established tuxedo names but remains behind tuxedos bearing higher world-class branded recognition.

 

In today’s difficult economy even recognized brand names are forced to become affordable to compete with the growing choices offered to consumers. Such was the reason Vera Wang expanded her base of consumers by collaborating with David’s Bridal, creating a more affordable product but becoming the most expensive line at David’s. Strategically the Wang line became mainstream while lifting David’s pricing ability to a wider consumer base.

The Vera Wang organization followed-up by expanding into the men’s tuxedo business, collaborating with Men’s Wearhouse, creating style and demand in a yet another strategic alliance. Searches for Vera Wang tuxedos blew past established names in the formal wear business.

In our ongoing investigation into this story eWedNewz learned that the greater demand and brand recognition the higher the risk of being imitated, copied and tampered with. In the case of Giorgio Armani the probability of being copied bears the greatest risk of creating excellent designs. Descriptions and accounts of fake Armani products concludes  imitation really is the sincerest form of flattery; we haven’t found many accounts of pirates copying styles or products that nobody wants.

 

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2012

Tuxedo Rentals are down but Sales are Up

By Paul Pannone

For various reasons including lack of style innovation and a reason for retailers to update inventory, tuxedo rentals have continued to fall out of favor among a new generation of consumers. Adding to the decline are less formal wedding events and greater acceptance of using regular suits by the groom and his ushers.

 

Internet searches for Vera Wang Tuxedos raised awareness for tuxedo rentals in 2012.

 

According to a recent survey from Bridal Guide Magazine only 67.9% of respondents said the groom and men in the wedding party would be wearing tuxedos. Of those, 85% said they would be renting, while 15% said they would buy their formal wear; up significantly from 2009 when other data sources said 8% would buy.

Since 2001 the tuxedo rental business has continued to decline. In 2000 there were four major clothing suppliers, three accessory companies, three shirt companies, three plastic shoe suppliers and over 9,000 retailers. Today there are barely three tuxedo-makers; no significant accessory makers. The industry struggles for shirts and shoes. There are far less true tuxedo specialists left and more departing every year.

In the past 18 months there’s been some style innovation and brand expansion including the use of celebrity followers and recognized dress designer names. eWedNewz is watching several other innovative moves in advertising and marketing to help jump-start interest at the consumer level. We will report the findings later this year.

 

 

What do you say? Take a moment and vote

 

 

 

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2012

 

No Surprise; David’s Bridal on the Auction Block

By Paul Pannone

The New York Post piece about Leonard Green putting David’s Bridal up for sale comes as no surprise, as most investment companies know when it’s time to leave. Guided strictly by hard data and facts the decision reportedly comes from the realization the formal wedding business is failing.

 

The growth of David’s Bridal has slowed over the past few years and now its owners are getting out.

 

Sources, including the respected Pew Research data center, suggest irreparable aversion towards marriage in the way it’s traditionally viewed. While there are probably just as many unions that include simple, civil, same-sex, interracial, destination, etc. marriages, to walk down the aisle and run to a catering facility for freezer-tasting meals– for $30,000+– is no longer the standard of today’s couples.

According to sources familiar with the story David’s and its owners are not blind to the facts and series of events leading to their decision to sell. In the past year we’ve seen the Knot run to China looking for a broader market, admitting the competition in the United States makes it difficult, if not impossible to grow. The wedding business saw the predicted failure of Get Married, despite efforts by their owners to try to find creative ways of sustaining a profitable level of operation.

The steady decline of newsstand magazine sales, particularly Brides, who remains in the business despite shrinking advertiser support and a recent revamp of their magazine cover, shows a level of tenacity. But even with thicker, more eye-appealing paper and a slightly different cover, a shrinking magazine can only mean shrinking dollars. Followers of Brides say they’re amazed at how they still exist. Some say they’re on a deathwatch.

Currently, an ongoing eWedNewz poll shows 55% of wedding business respondents say they are keeping their heads above water, hoping for things to get better. But with David’s owners decision to dump the retailer and the steady lament of wedding business owners coupled together leads to one conclusion for the business-minded: get out.

Sources say David’s and its owners are following the move of Martha Stewart who recently abandoned their direct stake in the wedding business, selling their stock in Wedding Wire to a group called Catalyst. Martha took the money, ran and forged a deal with the review website, funneling local traffic to them.

Last year David’s shut down Priscilla of Boston, yielding to the high cost of operating the stores and a less willing consumer to spend for merchandise they offered. Sources told eWedNewz the company was encouraged by the growing interest and success of their Vera Wang partnership, banking that the savings of shutting down Priscilla stores and higher ticket prices delivered by Wang products would improve margins.

Even David’s Bridal that leveraged off-shore manufacturing in China to cripple their competition has found they’re losing sales to online pirates that bypass them and all American gown makers, leaving them at a price disadvantage, as consumers go direct.

While at another news format in 2010 I learned, David’s was hopeful at some flippy-floppy numbers and reports by the Wedding Report that encouraged them to stay in the game. Encouraging numbers that rose after the steep decline in wedding planning and spending during the 2008 market collapse that now falter,  growing indicators say a wounded wedding market will not rebound, as hoped.

Crediting a close collaboration between David’s Bridal and Men’s Wearhouse, Vera Wang tuxedos were added for the 2012 season. Online searches for Vera Wang products, including tuxedos, are high on the scale this season, behind Calvin Klein, only because of their longstanding track record in the category.

 

What do you think?

 

 

 

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2012

The Tuxedo Business Gets a Boost from Vera Wang and Tony Bowls; What a Situation

By Paul Pannone

2012 will be remembered as the year tuxedos were reinvented– not by the narrow-minded People of the Tux– but by women dress makers and a TV personality. After years of decline the sale and use of tuxedos are on an upswing, attracting foreign manufacturers and other interested investors that hear the buzz and look to capitalize on the resurgence.

Updated fit, new fabrics and stylish innovation get the credit for the upswing, led by manufacturers that use their tailored suit division intelligence and are able to quickly update silhouettes for a consumer no longer willing to wear his father’s tuxedo.

 

According to Google searches for the term “tuxedos” and related terms have been in decline since 2006. But current related tuxedo searches are up significantly at this time of year.

 

Internet searches hitting eWedNewz stories about tuxedos continue to grow in peak demand times. Searches for Vera Wang tuxedos are gathering attention, fueled by gown sales at David’s Bridal. Brides that buy Vera Wang dresses are directed to Men’s Wearhouse for the formal wear– a natural choice.

The popular Tony Bowls dress brand was used by Jim’s formal wear to create a Tony Bowls tuxedo that also sold well and is renting for prom. Again driven by dress sales, the emotional connection is a natural transfer from female to male escort.

The tuxedo talk of the season came from the Jersey Shore TV celebrity, the Situation, who promoted the line. Sources like TMZ, MTV, MSNBC and countless other news sources created a media event for the line. The orders and production for the number one new tuxedo for 2012, the Avalon, was cutoff, creating an even higher demand for the product.

So what do all these new tuxedo brands have in common? The same people who make Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Joseph Abboud and other retail brands– FLOW Formalmake the garments for Vera Wang, Tony Bowls and the Situation.

Fashion sources say they’re not surprised at the growing buzz for tuxedo use. Expert, Jim Duhe, told eWedNewz;

“Interest in Vera Wang tuxedos is growing.  Why? Was there some type of divine intervention?  Did an arch angel come down from the sky and suggest that people should search the internet for Vera Wang tuxedos?  Did the compulsion to search for Vera Wang Tuxedos come to people in dream form?

Maybe you’ve noticed that Vera Wang tuxedo ads now are included in all major national bridal publications.  The campaign is  modest — spreads in each issue.   No retail locations are specified on the ad.  However, readers are directed to go to the Men’s Wearhouse web site.  Interesting.”

The rise in interest for tuxedos sparks interest from manufacturing and licensing organizations that want to get into the tuxedo business but admit they know very little of where to begin. Most don’t realize the cost involved and quickly back away when they find out what is involved.

 

 

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2012

The Week of April 16th in Review

 

By Paul Pannone

The wedding business says they’re still tying to digest the Brides magazine makeover at Conde’ Nast. Pros and cons of the magazine haven’t been able to give a true read of whether the changes are able to lift sagging sales at the newsstand.

eWNz readers watch, as polls strongly suggest support for American made products, while all is forgotten at checkout counters in retail stores. eWedNewz continues to look at why Americans want one thing but do the opposite when it comes time to support what they want.

Along the same lines prom spending rises, led by families that can least afford it. The jump in spending is welcomed by retailers but most say the added profits goes towards offsetting the higher cost of operations.

The fight against online piracy slowed a bit, as Steve Lang travels to his factories in China. While away the crooks will play; Lang’s company, Mon Cheri, was the victim of thievery.

Demand created for The Situation tuxedo results in interest and rental of tuxedos under the brand. eWedNewz is watching what competitors are doing to combat the loss of business while FLOW ramps up all its lines– including the Situation– for the 2013 season.

 

 

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2012

 

The Total Situation Package

By Paul Pannone

Since launching the Situation line of tuxedos last summer FLOW formal raised the hope and morale of an entire formal wear industry that was down in the dumps for nearly a decade. Adding the Situation to the company’s world-class brands balanced the line-up and expanded the limited use of a boring tuxedo through style innovation, marketing and promotion. Suddenly the old tuxedo is young again.

For 2012 FLOW had to find more production capacity for all their products including Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Joseph Abboud and the Situation. Even with the increase production the tuxedo manufacturer could not keep up with demand. FLOW stopped accepting new orders on Situation products; FLOW couldn’t react to rising demand fast enough to guarantee delivery in time for the start of the season.

 

Eye For Design offers complete marketing packages for the average tuxedo business.

 

Impacted are hundreds of stores that waited too long and suddenly find themselves shut out. The trickle down effect continues, as stores that ordered on time and are now getting their deliveries look for promotional products to replace tired, old displays that feature expired campaigns by out-of-business manufacturers.

“I’ve heard about it since it was first announced and knew I had to revamp my entire thought process around what FLOW had done,” according to Michelle Long, owner of Eye For design.

The flood of demand for Situation promotional products led to a revamp of the Eye For Design company website that’s set for a Spring launch to finding new and better sources to handle the surge in volume.

“People will be able to order right online and get a super-fast delivery of promotional products once they place their order for the garments. It’s been really good, even just fielding calls and taking orders over the telephone,” according to Long.

Plans to create similar packages for all FLOW designer branded garments are underway.

 

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2012

Situation Tuxedos Sold Out, as Demand Keeps rising

 

By Paul Pannone

Since FLOW Formal announced they signed the Situation in July, 2011, the debate of whether it was a good or bad move flooded the internet, television and the minds of store-owners torn on whether to support the program– or not. No more worries, as production is to full capacity and sold out for the peak 2012 season.

 

Demand for 2012 Situation formal wear will exceed manufactured products ordered and shipped to stores.

 

 

In an ongoing eWedNewz watch demand at the consumer level for the key coat, the Avalon, continues to rise as we head into peak booking season. Internet searches for Situation tuxedos will boil over by the middle of February when young adults– male and female– start to really think about what they’re wearing for prom and other social events requiring a formal look. Coverage by major news organizations including MTV have talked about Situation tuxedos since the summer.

“The whole idea behind the Situation was marketing; we did our homework with product. This proves what we’ve been saying all along; today’s formal wear user wants style and fashion that belongs to them, not the past generation,” according to Brian Weintraub of FLOW.

Weintraub gave the FLOW sales force last call on cuttings for over-worked factories busy making and shipping all new products for the company. But the real challenge is for millions of consumers looking for 2012 styles and shown outdated merchandise by store owners. eWedNewz continues to watch regional flare ups where store owners pointed fingers at one another for pawning off old, useless (and smelly) garments to consumers, turning them off from renting tuxedos totally.

According to some sources the shortage of new products could be a boon to the business. Stores that bought light runs say they plan to charge a premium and look to wholesalers (companies that stores borrow from) for overflow demand. For wholesalers key styles in the Situation line will turn weekly because of the demand created by the television star.

Images of the Situation are ubiquitous on the Internet; he is often seen wearing and promoting his formal wear products on television interviews. He’s raised awareness for tuxedos for the 2012 season like no advertising campaign could ever do. In short, the promotion (demand) far outweighs stores to order the goods and factories to make and deliver them in such a tight window (supply).

Because of the rising challenges of oversea production apparel manufactures are sticking to cutoff dates and not upsetting buyers by taking orders they know they will never deliver on-time. In formal wear, the requirements are even greater, as all shipments must be received in time for peak season.

According to manufacturing sources companies that rely on Chinese production lose nearly a month of production time due to the country’s New Year celebrations.

FLOW Formal is the maker of Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Joseph Abboud and other formal wear products.

 

 

 

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2012

From Abercrombie to JC Penny the world Adapts to a Changing Consumer

 

By Paul Pannone

 

eWedNewz continues our investigation into the changing demands of today’s consumer and how businesses are trying to adapt to keep them satisfied. The changes are so profound major companies that once dominated their industry are crumbling, replaced by new and improved products led by technology.

This week Kodak filed for bankruptcy protection to restructure its business and function in a new age. Members of the Wedding Water Cooler gave their view of what’s happening to these major brands and why giant companies are failing.

“How does a brand name become “beloved.”  It takes a lot more than nostalgia. Many years ago, Oster was the generic name for blenders — you didn’t buy a blender, you bought an Osterizer; Kleenex was and remains (to a much lesser degree) the generic name for facial tissue; Electrolux was the generic name for a vacuum cleaner; After Six was the generic name for a tuxedo; Kodak was a generic name for a camera.

Two elements are required to create and sustain a brand name: a cutting edge product; a consistently strong marketing and advertising campaign.  Nostalgia is great but it wouldn’t push me to purchase an Oster blender; an Electrolux; an After Six tuxedo; or a Kodak camera. After Six no longer exists.  Kodak is breathing its last breath. Regardless of the amazing popularity of a brand name, a brand will wither and die without effective marketing.  Once that happens, it proves to be impossible to revive it.

It all boils down to intelligent management.  Arrow and Van Heusen probably are both doing just fine these days.  I know nothing of these companies.  However, as a consumer, I learned these brand names when I was in high school and college a hundred years ago.  Ask high school or college kids today to name a shirt brand.  They’ll talk about H &M, they’ll talk about Abercrombie & Fitch, they’ll talk about The Gap, they’ll talk about Old Navy.  Maybe one in a hundred (if that) might mention Arrow or Van Heusen.  While high school and college aged kids are not the Arrow or Van Heusen target, this age group is vital to establishing a name brand image for older customers.  If you wait until the guy begins his first job, he will be much less susceptible to branding.

There was a time when both Arrow and Van Heusen had strong marketing campaigns.  What ever happened to the guy with the eye patch? Management may be saving a few bucks on marketing and advertising but they’re losing their shirts (pardon the pun) to generic merchandise. Arrow and Van Heusen are going the way of most major department stores
and there’s only one way to stop them from heading in that direction … a strong marketing campaign.  You have to spend the money to make the money or you can bend over and kiss your own brand name good-bye,” according to Jim Duhe.

Duhe and other senior members of the WWC are able to look back at the past and now forward to the future with an objective look, seeing the world as it once was– and what its become. But there’s a new generation of management emerging; educated on the experiences of a time gone by, armed only with standards that are no longer relevant to today’s society.

 

JC Penny continues to reinvent itself, updating products and the overall shopping experience to its consumers.

 

In a recent story Michael Kramer, president and chief executive officer of Kellwood Co at the time of his interview, admitted keeping on eye on reality shows, social media and reaching consumers in a new way. In his interview Kramer mentions shows like the Kardashians and the Jersey Shore and following celebrity news (newZ) including J.Lo’s divorce.

“When I read the story about Mr. Kramer I couldn’t help thinking how social media and connecting with consumer is the way business is conducted today, ” says Brian Weintraub of FLOW Formal.

Weintraub is the third generation of apparel makers dating back to when his grandfather and father began importing clothes manufactured off shore. Today, Weintraub and his family realize how important it is to connect with consumers, leveraging the use of social media, celebrities and promotions.

“We’re a branded label company; the forerunner of social networking when people connected by wearing quality clothes under recognized named like Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, etc. Now we’re following their lead and using the power of the internet to connect consumers with products through our stores,” says Weintraub.

Weintraub admits he’s in a conservative industry but also knows implementation of today’s new business approach is a must for continued success. Weintraub’s first project was signing TV reality celebrity, the Situation,  to connect with a new generation of formal wear users that no longer want to be told what to wear.

“Luckily we represent the best world-class names for the part of the market they speak to. Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Joseph Abboud spend an enormous amount of money to keep their names in front of consumers. By adding the Situation, we boosted our overall marketing visibility to millions of television viewers and internet followers that watch what Mike Sorrentino (the Situation) does,” says Weintraub.

Weintraub told eWedNewz he’s being asked for interviews by publications, both in and out of the trade, interested in his business views and the future of the formal wear business.

“Whatever happens the world is not going back to where it was; the internet is here to stay and the impact of new-age marketing will continue to grow at the expense of print and all other forms of (traditional) marketing,” feels Weintraub.

Since his interview, Michael Kramer was named Chief Operating Officer of JC Penny. Like countless other companies, Penny is a conservative, moderate-priced company that struggles to connect with a changing business environment. But unlike its competitors, JC Penny is revamping its reputation and including major changes that make it easy for consumers to buy product in stores– and online. According to About.com, JCP.com (JC Penny) is ranked number three behind Amazon and Avon.

Website and Wedding expert, Christine Boulton, told eWedNewz,” Years ago there was JC Penny and Sears; you were a customer of one or the other. They were both good product retailers at moderate prices. Today that still holds true but Penny has been able to reinvent themselves, their reputation and how they appeal to a new customer– Sears, in my opinion, has not. A lot has to do with moves to make their products more appealing and hiring people like Kramer. He worked with Abercrombie & Fitch so that part of what he learned goes with him to JC Penny.

It’s like everything else; if you have company management and leadership that can’t look past their glory days, they’re never going to be able to connect with what’s relevant in today’s world. That type of thinking no longer works; it hasn’t for some time,” feels Boulton.

 

Thoughts?

 

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2012

FLOW Formal Tapped to Manufacture Products for Two Big deals

 

By Paul Pannone

The two biggest buyers of formal wear business selected FLOW Formal to manufacture private label programs with top fashion gown manufacturers, Vera Wang and Tony Bowls. The  two separate licensing arrangement between Vera Wang, Men’s Wearhouse and Tony Bowls, Jim’s Formalwear required a manufacture with the wherewithal and financial ability to produce and deliver massive quantities of products in a very tight delivery window.

eWedNewz discovered FLOW Formal is one of the few suppliers that could handle the deals because of their worldwide production and strong financial ability to offer the upfront cost of materials, labor and shipping requirements.

 

eWedNewz watches FLOW’s continued to grow in the diminishing formal wear business, supplying formal wear under the Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Joseph Abboud labels to the open-market trade.

 

 

The shift from generic, fictitious products towards recognized, better branded goods is what prompted the licensing deals, raising the ceiling on margins for store owners that have not kept up with updating merchandise in the wake of a faltering economy.

In 2010 the tuxedo manufacturer diversified its lineup of products, launching innovative styling under the TV Celebrity endorsement of “The Situation”. The collaboration leverages millions of his followers on television and online, now aware of FLOW manufactured products bearing his name.

The company continues to offer tuxedo basics under their Lord West brand, acquired when Formal One merged with Lord West in 2006 to form “Formal Lord One West”, aka, FLOW. The merger continues to offer better formal wear retailers in the tuxedo trade with quality products under world-class names.

FLOW continues to refine its systems, investing a significant amount of resources to better manufacturing, production and promotion of men’s rental and retail tuxedos and accessories. A growing presence on the internet includes social media and a planned re-launch of their company website, www.tuxedos.com , slated for early spring, 2012.

The owner and management at FLOW declined to comment on the specifics of the deal.

eWedNewz continues our coverage of the early 2012 launch and success of both deals.

 

 

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2011