Infighting, Fragmentation and Fighting in the Tuxedo Business Could Hamper Comeback

By Paul Pannone

eWedNewz is watching a developing story with conflicting information to a recent resurgence of the men’s formal wear business. Tuxedo rentals have been in decline for over a decade and saw the closure of several founding companies including After Six.

 

When a customer walks into a tuxedo rental store they don’t know how old the garment is.

The original After Six company founded in 1902 made tuxedos in Philadelphia until it went out of business in 1993. The name bounced around the industry for decades after the original company closed and was even owned by the Allstate Insurance company (after Six 2 Baltimore 1994-1996) and the Sequa corporation (After Six 3 1996-2009), among other short-term ownership. What remains are products created years ago that still appear on many websites and showrooms across America, tainting the use of rented tuxedo.

 

According to IBISWorld spending is supposed to increase in various parts of wedding planning industries but the tuxedo business is expected to shrink in the next five-years.

 

51% of an ongoing poll so-far says the tuxedo rental industry is set for a comeback. Together with 26% who say the rental business is holding steady giving a 76% positive rating as opposed to 13% of respondents who feel the tuxedo rental business is dying; 3% say it’s already dead, giving a 16% negative view. 7% say they’re not sure.

Recent blogs by long-time wedding and event planners say the tuxedo business is due for a comeback, ready to service a new generation of users following young role model entertainers adorning the updated threads.

Forces opposing the comeback includes fragmentation in the tuxedo rental business. Lagging behind in technology,  presentation in stores and online. Word of suspect products that have been around for decades is reaching the consumer who are cautious and more aware about  what they’re wearing.  Internet searches for new items find updated styles by Vera Wang and Tony Bowls. New fit and softer fabrics attract new users who are willing to spend upwards of $200 dollars to rent the latest designs. Yet the traditional part of the tuxedo rental business remains stuck in price-wars fighting one another with old merchandise, old ideas and a very arrogant attitude.

Currently there are at least four recognized organizations in the tuxedo business: IFA, SIFA, Tuxedo Junction and SAVVI, each with their own membership, views and approach on marketing. A visit with some of the spokespeople in each of the organizations this week admitted personality conflicts and differences of opinion.

“That’s why there are so many different organizations in the business. There are some very strong personalities with prideful views who aren’t willing to work together,” said one member of the IFA, the original formal wear organization.

Quietly, each organization said they were formed to encourage manufacturers. In reality groups were formed to beat up manufacturers on price and getting them to sponsor outdated, unnecessary trade shows and offset  marketing/advertising expenses. Equally as quiet all groups say they’re focused on trying to keep pace with their biggest competitor.

Men’s Wearhouse hit a homerun with Vera Wang this season. A new arrangement brings the Calvin Klein brand exclusively to Men’s Wearhouse next year, after the tuxedo business did not (or could not) support the brand. eWedNewz watches as more announcements are made that can help the business– if retailers  realize the power of new, branded products are what customers are looking for– and don’t mind paying for them.

As far as IBISWorld data, eWedNewz got the company to re-visit flawed data given by the research firm to TheStreet.com that said Men’s Wearhouse rented one out of two tuxedos in the United States at the time of the story release in May, 2011.

 What do you think? Are tuxedo rentals back? Were they ever gone? Or are they ready to be buried?

 

eWedNewz

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2013

Chinese Get more Aggressive while American Gown Makers Look on

By Paul Pannone

On the first anniversary of an unprecedented meeting in New York the American Bridal and Prom Industry Association convened members of the wedding media to update them on the progress of efforts to slow down the rampant piracy of American goods and conceptual property. Members of the ABPIA board gave the gathering a realistic assessment of the current status saying the campaign enters another phase of an expected long, arduous process.

Bob Cahoon of Maggie Sottero gave the media gathering in New York his honest assessment of a very difficult situation. Steve Lang looks on.

Steve Lang took his usual place at the start of the meeting but yielded midway to Bob Cahoon, president of Maggie Sottero and board member. Cahoon reiterated what Lang has been telling eWedNewz and the wedding industry for over a year staying consistent with the message. Both Cahoon and Lang went beyond the usual rundown of what’s been done so far and stressed how the battle becomes more difficult with each win.

“They’re not going to just sit still and allow us to gain any ground; to the contrary they’re becoming more aggressive and tenacious in their efforts, ” Lang told eWedNewz.

According to Lang the battles won so-far were only preliminaries of what is to come. The illegal use of imaging and explaining how it hurts manufacturers is a difficult legal battle. Now the greater use of technology changing the face of models, creating an entirely different image, makes convincing a judge of a crime more difficult.

Exuberance of a year ago turned serious this time around, as Lang and the ABPIA fight an uphill battle for support from an industry whose nation is under siege. Lang cited a  New York Times story of how the middlemen and layers of overhead are being stripped away from the chain supply of manufactured goods. Lang and Cahoon admitted retailers are part of the traditional structure and conduit between their products and consumers. But rising cost of operation inflates prices  and is forcing some stores, including Vera Wang, to figure out how to stay competitive while boosting revenue.

“We know all the challenges that exist; they’re not going to go away. All we can do is adjust our businesses to the realities that are out there. The best we can hope for is to slow down the deterioration that is taking place,” Lang told the gathering.

An ongoing poll shows 71% of combined replies so-far think the chances of beating online piracy are fair-to-excellent. 26% of combined replies say chances are poor-to-impossible.

 

Only 5% of current replies say they would not join an industry organization. An overwhelming majority say they would support an organization that was well-run, offered good benefits and was not too expensive to join.

 

An appeal to the gathered media to spread the word about the organization was reinforced by board members. Cahoon told the members of the media he keeps track of the perception of the organization’s effort by having Maggie Sottero sales people ask accounts what they think. The results of the surveys were not clear or available for review, but Cahoon mentioned the $100 dollar membership fee was sometimes an issue.

On his own, Lang brought up plans to provide affordable healthcare to the broader  wedding industry beyond dresses. But while poll results so-far show a strong sign of support, actual membership does not show the results.

 

eWedNewz

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2013

IBMA gets new President | Hedy S. Lapkin Executive Director, IBMA

 

By Paul Pannone

The IBMA has risen again and lives but eWedNewz once again asks: for how long?

 

The ABPIA was formed by a former member of the IBMA group called Steve Lang. Over a year ago, Lang left the group and formed his own organization, ABPIA, to wage war against Chinese pirates.

 

The IBMA is trying to re-launch their organization naming Hedy S. Lapkin as Executive Director. Hedy and her husband, Ed, owned a big bridal shop in Richmond, VA, reportedly one of the best stores in the country.  Ultimately, the store went bankrupt in the late 80′s or early 90′s.   Hedy took a job with David’s Bridal and successfully transferred from David’s to Priscilla of Boston, selling Priscilla to bridal shops.

Hedy touched base with former members of the Bridal Manufacturing group saying:

Dear Former Bridal IBMA Member,

A new and exciting time is presenting itself to all the members past and present of the manufacturing and related industries for the Bridal Industry.

I am Hedy Lapkin, newly appointed Executive Director of IBMA. As your executive director I have challenged myself, with your support and the support of the existing Board to create meaningful ways to utilize your funds that the organization is holding in reserve.

We can and will be a strong voice with your support for the Wholesale Bridal Industry and be responsible for the funds you helped to create. We will provide benefits for our members and at the same time gain recognition as The Trade Association. It is our desire to listen to your needs, create a call to action, and deliver on the most pressing and beneficial needs and wants to benefit our members.

Many of you as former members paid annual dues while other members were involved and participated in the Las Vegas Market.

The Industry is confronted with a wide variety of challenges, and presently the IBMA is in the best position to represent many of the needs of Manufactures of the Bridal Industry.

eWedNewz has learned that Lang congratulated Hedy in her new role and wanted to continue his membership with IBMA. An e-mail to Hedy reads as follows:

Dear Hedy,

Congratulations on your new position.

I sent you in my application several weeks ago when this mailer came out.  As a previous contributors to the funds sitting in IBMA coffers I want my firm to be a member.

Please email me back a confirmation that we are now members and we will be copied on all meeting dates, happenings  and mailings. Mon Cheri was not sent the email about free membership for those that rejoin by May 1. Another manufacturer sent it to me.   Thanks for including me in future emails and, as requested already, please confirm we are now members again.

I stand ready to help you any way I can if you tackle counterfeiting. The more the merrier.

Sincerely,

Steve  Lang

 

According to ongoing polls so-far:

27%  feel there is a poor to impossible chance of beating online piracy.

71% feel there is a fair to excellent chance of beating online piracy.

 

91% of replies so-far say they would support a wedding industry organization if it offered good benefits, value, isn’t too expensive to join and was properly run.

6% say they would not join an industry organization.

 

eWedNewz

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2013

Samantha Goldberg to Marni Gold; It’s Nothing Personal

 

By Paul Pannone

In a story that’s shocking the wedding business but not surprising to those familiar with the details, Samantha Goldberg underscored original statements assuring her written criticisms against Marni Gold are Nothing Personal. Goldberg continues to slam Gold in all Social Media circles, slowly joined by others who say they too were burned by Marni Gold in the past.

Samanth Goldberg has relentlessly gone after people and organizations she feels do not have the best interest of the wedding business and its members, including Wedding Wire. In late 2011 Goldberg rocked Wedding Wire’s world and gained the support of wedding vendors who agreed they had been wronged by the review website.

 

Marni Gold told eWedNewz she doesn’t know why she is being tormented by Samantha Goldberg. Samantha Goldberg assures Marni Gold it’s “nothing personal”.

 

In a follow-up statement to the story Goldberg said the following:

“I would like to add, I thank everyone for your support on Twitter, FB and more…My goal is to focus on what is right, truthful and the standards in which our end-user expect. Look around you, it’s the end-user who suffers due to vendors like this who take a REALLY good thing, and turn it into something I have no words for. I have not 1 reason to have a PERSONAL “vendetta” of Mrs Gold..I don’t know her, never met her to even get to know her and honestly, I don’t care to at this point. The key word here is it’s NOT PERSONAL – It’s the actions of the person which I want to stop.

My fear for the “end-user” ( of the various seminar subjects and it’s attendees) which are not directed to Marni personally is that someone always suffers with each idea she has.. Why share information in a misleading fashion if you claim to do good? Why was the non-profit not shared with the public?

I have shared tangible proof.

Marni asked for me to share my thoughts…I did. I shared my goal to stop this nonsense so that those in the know or not- Will not have to keep the everlasting wall of being uncertain up-How can one trust any good deed when you have things like this that linger every-time? You have to question if your investment is REALLY going to the cause and or topic of seminar being what it claims..

It never used to be this way…I hope that we as an industry can regroup and retrain so we can continue LOVING what we do instead of not trusting our peers. It happens everyday and M Gold is not the only person who allows for this…

Again, my focus is NOT personal nor is my goal to destroy or defame…It’s to make you aware…Not being aware for those who have been public, they would share the road to recovery/trust is usually a long one and for some resulted leaving our industry which honestly is/was a shame. We have lost some great leaders based on issues such as this…If defame/destroy is the result it’s not due to me alerting those to be aware and more so facts that become public which help me to stop such nonsense and follow the same actions to stick with the facts. I have Facts,” says Goldberg.

Others support Goldberg including Dorinda Duclos of New Jersey. In an Sunday morning exchange on Facebook Duclos says she was victimized by Gold in the past and is ready to give proof if need be. Duclos raises questions about Marni Gold’s most recent project guided by her experience .

“If she’s so high on WUWNJ, why isn’t the charity’s name being used on the Facebook page for this event? It claims to be donated to our non-profit of choice. There’s a lot out there and it makes me sick that she’s still getting away with this crap,” said Duclos.

eWedNewz dug deeper while alerting Duclos the story has many twists and turns with behind-the-scene information of which most people are unaware.

” I am speaking about Marni (Gold) and applauding Samantha for taking a stand. It’s gone on long enough. I have had my own dealings with Marni and really wish this to all come to an end; sooner than later,” said Duclos.

The story became public over the weekend but is known by those who say Marni Gold has a history of failures and dubious allegations. So-far no tangible proof has been presented but, according to Goldberg and now Duclos both say they can substantiate their claims with facts.

Goldberg and Duclos are both members of the Wedding Water Cooler. They’re joined by other members of the group discussing the story who are also throwing daggers at Marni Gold’s method of recruitment and invitation to speak at events. Some say they’re refraining from any involvement until more facts come to light.

So-far an overwhelming majority (54%) side with Samantha Goldberg while a smaller representation of people (8%) side with Marni Gold on the story.

What do you think?

 

 

eWedNewz continues our investigation into this story.

eWedNewz

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2013

Goldberg VS. Wedding Industry Crooks

By Paul Pannone

After years of allegations and innuendo, Samantha Goldberg says she’s ready to come out swinging against alleged wedding industry crooks and those who she feels prey on the ignorance of newcomers to the business. In a Press Release labeling Goldberg an Event Extraordinaire  a new show that is supposed to deal with the subject rocks the wedding world sending notorious hucksters in both genders looking for a rock to crawl under. Or at least those aware of Goldberg’s unbridled and relentless approach of calling out people on her shit list.

The new era began with a written assault against a pop up event and its coördinator, Marni Gold.  A long, deep-rooted history of animosity surfaced again, as Goldberg took Gold to task on the event’s Facebook page. In the attack Goldberg references past events where she feels Gold somehow profited or at the very least misled supporters. Goldberg’s move is supported by others who do not wish to be mentioned– yet– but who also agree Goldberg’s move against Gold is warranted.

 

 Samantha Goldberg comes out swinging against another Gold; Marni Gold, a person she feels has profited in the past by using non-profits and who has now been put on warning.

 

eWedNewz caught up with Marni Gold and asked her why she feels she is a Goldberg target. In a telephone discussion she claims to have no clue but told eWedNewz

“This has been going on for years now. My husband an I have decided to take the high road and simply ignore her (Goldberg) and her posts on my wall and all the allegations she claims against me,” according to Marni Gold.

In Marni Gold’s explanation she agreed to email her statement describing her event and association with Wish Upon a Wedding, a charity that eWedNewz has been watching for several years after it was accused of  curious actions by Goldberg and other wedding industry sources.

According to Gold and in her own words;

“I am hosting it (The Pop Up Event) as a private event, meaning I personally am hosting it.  I personally decided, since I after years  am a board member (founding board member of the NJ chapter of Wish Upon A Wedding) and have been asked back, and because I really love the wonderful things this organization does for couples facing terminal illness and other serious life altering circumstances, to donated all net proceeds of the event to the cause.”

After years of watching and listening, this is the first mention of the WUW organization in this way. One other time Goldberg told eWedNewz her Facebook account was hacked– and Gold attacked. But in Goldberg’s current allegations she assured Gold it’s nothing personal. Goldberg told eWedNewz,

“The (wedding) industry needs protection and rid of  people who prey on newcomers and unsuspecting, good people, that give willingly and then have nothing to show for it when all is said and done.”

Goldberg has the support of members of the Wedding Water Cooler, an assembly of wedding industry professionals committed to unearthing the truth in the business and who are not afraid to speak their mind after they’ve discovered what that truth is. Private discussions with some of the members familiar with the story say Samantha is courageous in her actions against Gold, being burned by “Marni” in the past. Some say they’re going to sit back and watch and are prepared to speak out if/when there is something to add.

 eWedNewz welcomes your thoughts on this story and wants to know which “Gold” you’re supporting.

eWedNewz

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2013

Vera Wang Scraps $500 dollar Try-on Charge

By Paul Pannone

Because of a global outcry, Vera Wang has scrapped plans to charge Chinese shoppers a $500 fee. A Day after eWedNewz covered the story about Vera Wang charging the fee and negative global media coverage about their Shanghai store, a Vera Wang spokeswoman announced the charge was being scrapped as of today.

Fitting rooms are still free at Vera Wang and most bridal boutiques for now; but for how long?

 

“Please kindly be informed that Vera Wang has abolished appointment fees at her bridal salons worldwide starting from March 27, 2013,” the spokeswoman said in an email to the Reuters news agency, without elaborating.

The Wang organization claimed the fee was imposed to curtail some of the copying taking place. Their PR department also reported limited knowledge of the fee but quickly shuttered the plan as criticism grew along with media coverage.

Whatever the true reason, the prospect of Vera Wang’s policy sticking was music to the ears of retailers and some manufacturers we spoke with. Most say the Internet has disrupted their business, increasing meaningless store traffic, creating overhead and more cost to accommodate shoppers who want to physically see the merchandise, obtain SKU numbers and style information and then make their buy online for less money. But the rise of knock-off merchandise continues to plague the wedding dress business.

In 2012, China was the top source country for counterfeit goods entering the United States and the European Union (EU) with more than 70 percent originating from China, according to the latest customs seizure reports from the U.S. and the EU. According to the Counterfeiting Intelligence Bureau (CIB) of the International Chamber of Commerce (ICC), counterfeit goods make up 5 to 7% of world trade.

Currently, Steve Lang, owner on Mon Cheri, is embroiled in a battle to offset knock-off and online piracy. Lang’s effort includes forming an organization called the ABPIA that is gathering support in and out of the wedding dress business.

 

eWedNewz

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2013

 

Vera Wang Chinese Try-on Policy Gets American Retailers Excited

By Paul Pannone

Vera Wang is making headlines again but this time not with a new dress design but for the honor to try a dress on. According to reports brides-to-be (in China) are being charged almost $500 dollars for an hour and a half appointment to try on Vera Wang merchandise. The fee gets deducted from the price of the dress– if they buy– otherwise the money is forfeited.

We wonder if stars like Angelina Jolie get charged to simply try on a dress before the actual sale. Or do they get paid for mock-up publicity?

 

Reports say the company is trying to keep from getting knocked off, protecting its brand and designs, much like American manufacturers who’re in a fight for survival against dress piracy in China. It’s unknown whether the Vera Wang company is serious about supporting the fight that was recently backed up by a New Jersey judge or if times are just tight for everyone, including the Vera Wang company.

So far the practice has not hit the United States but sources say Vera Wang is watching the PR and backlash. Last year Dolce & Gabbana drew criticism on Social Networks for disallowing picture-taking by Hong Kong natives but not tourists. The unclear guideline raised some issues that no company can afford these days with the rise and instant reprisal brought on by bad publicity over the internet.

In the United States, eWedNewz bridal sources say they’re thrilled at Vera Wang’s attempt to charge consumers to try on merchandise. Facebook responses included store owners who feel they’re losing sales to online dress companies who undercut their prices.

“Bridal Salon professionals spend a lot of time giving “professional advice” what is in style, how to accessories, negotiate, all these girls, not all, but the majority all they want to do is “showroom” your salon, take pictures, and won’t commit to buy, and they have already tried on 50+ gowns. You mean to tell me a gal can’t walk into a beautiful Bridal salon with boutique quality gowns( not you know who)and can’t find anything in their budget?? This is nonsense, because every store has gowns that should be falling off the racks in sales every day!!! Price…it is what it is…you can’t expect to buy St. Pucchi for $1000 including the veil,” said one retailer.

Similar thoughts given by all responding store retailers shows the deep frustration they feel towards the internet and how it’s affected their operation and ability to charge the needed mark-up to stay in business.

The discussion spilled over into the Wedding Water Cooler where we omitted statements from retailers in the group but focused on those given by sources not in the retail end of the business.

“A few bridal retailers in the US have instituted try-on fees in the past.  However, I’m not aware of any fee that’s as high as the fee that Vera is charging.  The retailer applies the try-on fee toward any merchandise purchased in the store.  It’s a practical and logical policy for name brand retailers.  I could be wrong about this but I believe that Kleinfeld’s has a try-on fee.   It prevents show rooming for internet sites.  In the long run, it may be the only thing that will prevent consumers from going to a retailer to try on a gown that they plan to purchase online.  I doubt that this policy will fly in small markets but I can see the benefit it provides:  it separates the lookers from the buyers; it allows the retailer to concentrate efforts on consumers who definitely will purchase at the store,” according to one WWC member.

Kleinfeld told eWedNewz they do not charge to try on their gowns but do take credit-card and other personal information to book the appointment. But, according to Kleinfeld in New York City, no money is charged to try on their merchandise and there is no obligation to buy from them. It clearly states on their website, picture taking is not allowed during the shopping appointment.

May I take pictures of the gowns while I try them on?

“We do not allow cameras in the fitting rooms while you are shopping. Once you have purchased a dress, you may take as many pictures as you’d like.”

 

eWedNewz will continue to follow this story. We ask for your thoughts and opinion.

 

 

 eWedNewz

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2013

The Week of March 18th in Review

By Paul Pannone

In an ongoing story coverage eWedNewz watches as David’s Bridal updates their systems, moving towards reaching today’s consumers digitally and away from standard, traditional methods. The move leaves many disgruntled independent, small business owners shaking their heads wondering how in the world they will ever be able to compete.

David’s Bridal issued a Press Release that basically rubbed the nose of competitors into the challenges they face. Sources near the story told eWedNewz it’s just another chance for David’s Bridal to make noise and headlines , part of the new strategy to leverage online free publicity and grab the attention of brides.

28% of current, ongoing poll says small businesses will not be able to prevail against big box operations like David’s Bridal.

Pascual Ortiz, who married his long-time love a little over a year ago, lost his battle to cancer this week. Samantha Goldberg who helped plan the event told eWedNewz,  ”It’s a gift to have met Pascual he had such joy that day.”

 

 eWedNewz

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2013

David’s Digital Move to Accelerate Changes

By Paul Pannone

A Press release from David’s Bridal this week trumpets a new wave of change in the wedding business away from traditional marketing, advertising and procedure, towards the needs of impatient consumers who will be getting married. Comments from the last shred of purists who’ve seen the wedding business change make way for veterans who’ve given up the resistance against change and are done waiting for things to return to the way they were.

 

Shake hands with Ray Brown who has spent nearly 35 years with America’s leading corporations helping people and businesses improve their workflow processes and sales techniques.

 

Weighing in on the David’s Bridal Press release was Ray Brown, a long-time wedding industry veteran.

“This press release supports the trend we’ve seen for the last couple of years: Couples relying more and more on the internet for wedding planning information and utilizing developing technology to enhance their (and their guests) wedding day experience. Couples are relying less on traditional methods of information gathering like physical bridal shows and print magazines due to the increased popularity and use of video and social media. Websites like YouTube, Facebook and Pinterest, by focusing on improving the user experience, have helped people feel “connected to others electronically” facilitating this move to The Digital Age.

The Digital Age and Technology will continue to have impacts on many aspects of the Bridal Industry in addition to print; particularly wedding vendor service providers. Those who resist embracing it (technological advances) and maintain the status quo in their marketing and approach to interacting with engaged couples will soon find they have fallen too far behind to ever recover in this highly competitive industry,” according to Brown.

 eWedNewz digs deeper in the weeks and months ahead, looking at how and why successful, iconic businesses of the past are failing to connect with a new breed of consumer.

eWedNewz

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2013

David’s Bridal Banks on Digital as Print Continues to Suffer

By Paul Pannone

In an ongoing story a Press release by David’s Bridal gives strong indication they’re shifting more focus and resources to online, digital formats; going where today’s brides are. The move is consistent with eWedNewz reporting citing the outgoing CEO’s lack of prowess in the digital age and greater desire to make the necessary changes to keep David’s Bridal in their leadership role.

 

A Press Release from David’s Bridal includes findings from their 7th annual What’s On Brides’ Minds Survey. David’s Bridal found that the 2013 bride will plan, chronicle and culminate all of her wedding details with the help of social media, ranging from Pinterest to Facebook to Skype, banging the steady beat of declining use of print for wedding planning even louder.

According to David’s Press release;

“The big news is that everything has gone digital, and the new tools of the trade are a smart phone or a computer instead of a wedding binder.”

eWedNewz reported David’s Bridal was on the auction block last June, under mounting pressure as a giant leader in a declining market. After shedding losing parts of their business while adding designer brand Vera Wang, sources near the story tell eWedNewz the shift to digital is a natural progression and plan execution to stay in the leadership role in a changing market.

Current poll results show 62% of replies feels Leonard Green was smart in dumping their majority stake in David’s Bridal, 12% say they weren’t. Undecided, 23% say it remains to be seen. With the current Press release we will be watching the poll results very carefully.

 

 

eWedNewz

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2013