Infighting, Fragmentation and Fighting in the Tuxedo Business Could Hamper Comeback

By Paul Pannone

eWedNewz is watching a developing story with conflicting information to a recent resurgence of the men’s formal wear business. Tuxedo rentals have been in decline for over a decade and saw the closure of several founding companies including After Six.

 

When a customer walks into a tuxedo rental store they don’t know how old the garment is.

The original After Six company founded in 1902 made tuxedos in Philadelphia until it went out of business in 1993. The name bounced around the industry for decades after the original company closed and was even owned by the Allstate Insurance company (after Six 2 Baltimore 1994-1996) and the Sequa corporation (After Six 3 1996-2009), among other short-term ownership. What remains are products created years ago that still appear on many websites and showrooms across America, tainting the use of rented tuxedo.

 

According to IBISWorld spending is supposed to increase in various parts of wedding planning industries but the tuxedo business is expected to shrink in the next five-years.

 

51% of an ongoing poll so-far says the tuxedo rental industry is set for a comeback. Together with 26% who say the rental business is holding steady giving a 76% positive rating as opposed to 13% of respondents who feel the tuxedo rental business is dying; 3% say it’s already dead, giving a 16% negative view. 7% say they’re not sure.

Recent blogs by long-time wedding and event planners say the tuxedo business is due for a comeback, ready to service a new generation of users following young role model entertainers adorning the updated threads.

Forces opposing the comeback includes fragmentation in the tuxedo rental business. Lagging behind in technology,  presentation in stores and online. Word of suspect products that have been around for decades is reaching the consumer who are cautious and more aware about  what they’re wearing.  Internet searches for new items find updated styles by Vera Wang and Tony Bowls. New fit and softer fabrics attract new users who are willing to spend upwards of $200 dollars to rent the latest designs. Yet the traditional part of the tuxedo rental business remains stuck in price-wars fighting one another with old merchandise, old ideas and a very arrogant attitude.

Currently there are at least four recognized organizations in the tuxedo business: IFA, SIFA, Tuxedo Junction and SAVVI, each with their own membership, views and approach on marketing. A visit with some of the spokespeople in each of the organizations this week admitted personality conflicts and differences of opinion.

“That’s why there are so many different organizations in the business. There are some very strong personalities with prideful views who aren’t willing to work together,” said one member of the IFA, the original formal wear organization.

Quietly, each organization said they were formed to encourage manufacturers. In reality groups were formed to beat up manufacturers on price and getting them to sponsor outdated, unnecessary trade shows and offset  marketing/advertising expenses. Equally as quiet all groups say they’re focused on trying to keep pace with their biggest competitor.

Men’s Wearhouse hit a homerun with Vera Wang this season. A new arrangement brings the Calvin Klein brand exclusively to Men’s Wearhouse next year, after the tuxedo business did not (or could not) support the brand. eWedNewz watches as more announcements are made that can help the business– if retailers  realize the power of new, branded products are what customers are looking for– and don’t mind paying for them.

As far as IBISWorld data, eWedNewz got the company to re-visit flawed data given by the research firm to TheStreet.com that said Men’s Wearhouse rented one out of two tuxedos in the United States at the time of the story release in May, 2011.

 What do you think? Are tuxedo rentals back? Were they ever gone? Or are they ready to be buried?

 

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2013

Popular Brands compared to Unknown Names

By Paul Pannone

Growing pressure caused by challenging economic conditions force consumers who are trying to make ends meet to buy merchandise at lower prices. But when is a bargain not a bargain?

In an eWedNewz investigation experts warn about merchandise with little or no salable market. In the past consumers were less informed of materials and manufacturing methods. Today with the help of Social Media the word quickly spreads on products and services that do not meet the ever-growing demand of consumers.

“Basically, you want to buy only desirable merchandise. Some times merchandise shows up with closeout dealers because it wouldn’t sell in a store,” according to one expert.

Others agree saying as the notoriety of a brand name increases so does the standard of quality demands for fit, construction and overall performance expectations. But with the faltering economy the line of distinction between a world-class brand recognized by consumers and made-up, fictitious names can be easily mistaken by buyers who think they’re saving money when ordering merchandise.

Unknown brands use cheaper pricing to build their business while true brands leverage image and consumer demand to command higher pricing and higher margins for retailers, while delivering sustained quality assurance and value to consumers. It’s important to remember products bearing the name of a recognized brand known for quality in a variety of item translates into higher pricing power and ongoing ability to perform to everyone’s expectations.

According to Ask.Reference.com Brand is often the company name or logo referenced for a specific business. “Branding” is when their name, logo or company specific identifiers are strategically placed to better market their brand to the consuming public.

Vera Wang tops other more-established tuxedo names but remains behind tuxedos bearing higher world-class branded recognition.

 

In today’s difficult economy even recognized brand names are forced to become affordable to compete with the growing choices offered to consumers. Such was the reason Vera Wang expanded her base of consumers by collaborating with David’s Bridal, creating a more affordable product but becoming the most expensive line at David’s. Strategically the Wang line became mainstream while lifting David’s pricing ability to a wider consumer base.

The Vera Wang organization followed-up by expanding into the men’s tuxedo business, collaborating with Men’s Wearhouse, creating style and demand in a yet another strategic alliance. Searches for Vera Wang tuxedos blew past established names in the formal wear business.

In our ongoing investigation into this story eWedNewz learned that the greater demand and brand recognition the higher the risk of being imitated, copied and tampered with. In the case of Giorgio Armani the probability of being copied bears the greatest risk of creating excellent designs. Descriptions and accounts of fake Armani products concludes  imitation really is the sincerest form of flattery; we haven’t found many accounts of pirates copying styles or products that nobody wants.

 

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2012

The Price of Proms Rise but Profits Remain Stagnant

 

By Paul Pannone

The cost of nearly everything continues to rise and depending where you live it rises faster and more definitely than other parts of the country. eWedNewz discussions with store owners shows that even though prices are rising profits are not. Many say the increases are just about covering costs they’re experiencing from higher working expenses and energy prices.

Spending is up for rite of passage events, especially for families barely above the poverty level. The money is coming from somewhere.

 

 

A survey released by VISA shows some encouraging– or discouraging– news for the economy, depending on your point of view. The survey says spending is up by 33% but the greatest increase comes from the lowest income group.

According to the Visa survey, families in the Midwest spend less on the prom with an average cost of nearly $700. The survey shows Northeastern families spend over twice as much with an average cost of nearly $2,000. The average American family with teenagers plans to spend $1,078  — that’s for each child — on the prom, a 33.6 percent increase over the $807 spent last year.

The Visa survey finds that families in the lower-income brackets, less than $50,000, plan to spend even more — $1,307 per child. And those in the very lowest bracket, under $20,000, plan to spend $1,200 — more than 6 percent of their annual income. The dubious part of the survey says families earning between $20,000 and $30,000 plan to spend an average of $2,635, which would represent almost 9 percent of annual income for those making $30,000. Those families are just above the federal poverty level, which is $23,050 for a family of four.

The encouraging part is spending is up at all. eWedNewz discussions with apparel store owners, limousine companies and other prom associated businesses say there’s less discounting than ever this year. Nearly all agree the worst companies were forced to fold since the 2008 economic collapse. Those that remained were the strongest and most business-minded that understand there has to be a profit for all the hard work that goes into entrepreneurship. Yet most store owners say any other profit generated by price increases are quickly eroded by rapidly rising costs, leaving no net gain.

Store owners say they’ve not seen this kind of spending in over four years and with new innovation in fashion, kids are searching for the newest styles no matter what the cost is. Stores also told eWedNewz struggling parents would rather let their teenagers have what they want for rite of passage events instead of upgrading their iPhone.

Better Tuxedo store owners say they’re able to boost net margins by renting recognized brands including Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. This season innovation and the addition of The Situation products is helping to boost profits.

 

 

 

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2012

The Situation Brand Continues to Grow

 

By Paul Pannone

This month the Situation marketing team unveiled further plans to promote their products, cross-marketing with licensing partners while creating better value for all its participants. eWedNewz watches as the team devises new ways where products and partners work together and build a better overall brand. We also notice a way where tips, thoughts and some fun are added through a new segment to their strategy called Sitch News.

 

Business is booming at the Situation company. Marketing man, Mike Sussman (far right) , enjoying some family time at a company board meeting.

 

eWedNewz has watched the growth and reported the newZ last October. In an eWedNewz story we successfully called the business end of the Situation is nothing short of brilliant. The company continues to add new partners, leveraging their growing base of followers and friends via social networks.

eWedNewz has learned of a promotion that ties in products for a prom theme with prize giveaways to include eye-wear, a dress and the Sitch’s own line of tuxedos made by their formal wear partner, FLOW.

Marketing man, Michael Sussman of the Situation company told eWedNewz, “We are simply having the fans post their prom plans on Facebook and tagging Flow Formal. On Fridays we will select a winner and give them the choice of which tuxedo they want, free of charge.  For example, the Asbury in black or the Avalon in white.”

Likes resulting on both the Situation and FLOW pages are increasing because people want to be a part of the promotion, not because they have to. Since launching the Situation tuxedo line last August, demand for the front-running product– the Avalonhas far outpaced the ability to meet the demand. Currently steps in work to increase production for the 2013 season are being worked on.

From observation Situation marketing is not concocted in some stuffy corporate boardroom environment; but rather it develops naturally at the behest of its audience. What makes the strategy successful is providing the company’s growing base of supporters what they want, when they want it; a theme we’ve been talking about since the 1990′s in tuxedos. Finally FLOW went out and did it for the tuxedo business.

 

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2012

The Week of February 20th in Review

 

By Paul Pannone

The Shortened work week of February 20th saw a huge increase in eWedNewz story interest by wedding industry members, particularly in stories  that covered Hall of Shame material. But the top story fueled by consumers involves a recent survey from Bridal Guide Magazine that gave the number one reason for wedding dress purchasing. More and more, consumers are turning to eWedNewz as a resource when deciding what types of vendor to rely on for their wedding plans.

Consumers are connecting with vendors to look for the latest trends and up-to-date products from leading manufacturers.  If the Bridal Guide survey results are any indication, price is the leading reason for their purchasing decisions– but many consumers are also looking for true value for whatever they decide on.

On the rise is the growing problem of Internet thievery and what’s being done about it. The rampant rise of internet theft is here to stay leaving professionals to work around the reality and find solutions based on that fact.

It’s befitting that a story about the presidency of the United States and the deteriorating respect towards the office be in the top stories of the week. For the first time there was not one but two generations of Duhe men that weighed in on the topic.

A story released in December, 2011, about Vera Wang and Men’s Wearhouse collaborating to create tuxedo rentals with her brand trended up into the top stories, as Internet searches from consumers beginning to look for tuxedos moved the story up. The same is true for other brands by FLOW formal, including Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Joseph Abboud. The most searched brand for the 2012 season by far is the Situation, specifically, the Avalon tuxedo.

 

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2012

The Total Situation Package

By Paul Pannone

Since launching the Situation line of tuxedos last summer FLOW formal raised the hope and morale of an entire formal wear industry that was down in the dumps for nearly a decade. Adding the Situation to the company’s world-class brands balanced the line-up and expanded the limited use of a boring tuxedo through style innovation, marketing and promotion. Suddenly the old tuxedo is young again.

For 2012 FLOW had to find more production capacity for all their products including Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Joseph Abboud and the Situation. Even with the increase production the tuxedo manufacturer could not keep up with demand. FLOW stopped accepting new orders on Situation products; FLOW couldn’t react to rising demand fast enough to guarantee delivery in time for the start of the season.

 

Eye For Design offers complete marketing packages for the average tuxedo business.

 

Impacted are hundreds of stores that waited too long and suddenly find themselves shut out. The trickle down effect continues, as stores that ordered on time and are now getting their deliveries look for promotional products to replace tired, old displays that feature expired campaigns by out-of-business manufacturers.

“I’ve heard about it since it was first announced and knew I had to revamp my entire thought process around what FLOW had done,” according to Michelle Long, owner of Eye For design.

The flood of demand for Situation promotional products led to a revamp of the Eye For Design company website that’s set for a Spring launch to finding new and better sources to handle the surge in volume.

“People will be able to order right online and get a super-fast delivery of promotional products once they place their order for the garments. It’s been really good, even just fielding calls and taking orders over the telephone,” according to Long.

Plans to create similar packages for all FLOW designer branded garments are underway.

 

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2012

Situation Tuxedos Sold Out, as Demand Keeps rising

 

By Paul Pannone

Since FLOW Formal announced they signed the Situation in July, 2011, the debate of whether it was a good or bad move flooded the internet, television and the minds of store-owners torn on whether to support the program– or not. No more worries, as production is to full capacity and sold out for the peak 2012 season.

 

Demand for 2012 Situation formal wear will exceed manufactured products ordered and shipped to stores.

 

 

In an ongoing eWedNewz watch demand at the consumer level for the key coat, the Avalon, continues to rise as we head into peak booking season. Internet searches for Situation tuxedos will boil over by the middle of February when young adults– male and female– start to really think about what they’re wearing for prom and other social events requiring a formal look. Coverage by major news organizations including MTV have talked about Situation tuxedos since the summer.

“The whole idea behind the Situation was marketing; we did our homework with product. This proves what we’ve been saying all along; today’s formal wear user wants style and fashion that belongs to them, not the past generation,” according to Brian Weintraub of FLOW.

Weintraub gave the FLOW sales force last call on cuttings for over-worked factories busy making and shipping all new products for the company. But the real challenge is for millions of consumers looking for 2012 styles and shown outdated merchandise by store owners. eWedNewz continues to watch regional flare ups where store owners pointed fingers at one another for pawning off old, useless (and smelly) garments to consumers, turning them off from renting tuxedos totally.

According to some sources the shortage of new products could be a boon to the business. Stores that bought light runs say they plan to charge a premium and look to wholesalers (companies that stores borrow from) for overflow demand. For wholesalers key styles in the Situation line will turn weekly because of the demand created by the television star.

Images of the Situation are ubiquitous on the Internet; he is often seen wearing and promoting his formal wear products on television interviews. He’s raised awareness for tuxedos for the 2012 season like no advertising campaign could ever do. In short, the promotion (demand) far outweighs stores to order the goods and factories to make and deliver them in such a tight window (supply).

Because of the rising challenges of oversea production apparel manufactures are sticking to cutoff dates and not upsetting buyers by taking orders they know they will never deliver on-time. In formal wear, the requirements are even greater, as all shipments must be received in time for peak season.

According to manufacturing sources companies that rely on Chinese production lose nearly a month of production time due to the country’s New Year celebrations.

FLOW Formal is the maker of Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Joseph Abboud and other formal wear products.

 

 

 

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2012

From Abercrombie to JC Penny the world Adapts to a Changing Consumer

 

By Paul Pannone

 

eWedNewz continues our investigation into the changing demands of today’s consumer and how businesses are trying to adapt to keep them satisfied. The changes are so profound major companies that once dominated their industry are crumbling, replaced by new and improved products led by technology.

This week Kodak filed for bankruptcy protection to restructure its business and function in a new age. Members of the Wedding Water Cooler gave their view of what’s happening to these major brands and why giant companies are failing.

“How does a brand name become “beloved.”  It takes a lot more than nostalgia. Many years ago, Oster was the generic name for blenders — you didn’t buy a blender, you bought an Osterizer; Kleenex was and remains (to a much lesser degree) the generic name for facial tissue; Electrolux was the generic name for a vacuum cleaner; After Six was the generic name for a tuxedo; Kodak was a generic name for a camera.

Two elements are required to create and sustain a brand name: a cutting edge product; a consistently strong marketing and advertising campaign.  Nostalgia is great but it wouldn’t push me to purchase an Oster blender; an Electrolux; an After Six tuxedo; or a Kodak camera. After Six no longer exists.  Kodak is breathing its last breath. Regardless of the amazing popularity of a brand name, a brand will wither and die without effective marketing.  Once that happens, it proves to be impossible to revive it.

It all boils down to intelligent management.  Arrow and Van Heusen probably are both doing just fine these days.  I know nothing of these companies.  However, as a consumer, I learned these brand names when I was in high school and college a hundred years ago.  Ask high school or college kids today to name a shirt brand.  They’ll talk about H &M, they’ll talk about Abercrombie & Fitch, they’ll talk about The Gap, they’ll talk about Old Navy.  Maybe one in a hundred (if that) might mention Arrow or Van Heusen.  While high school and college aged kids are not the Arrow or Van Heusen target, this age group is vital to establishing a name brand image for older customers.  If you wait until the guy begins his first job, he will be much less susceptible to branding.

There was a time when both Arrow and Van Heusen had strong marketing campaigns.  What ever happened to the guy with the eye patch? Management may be saving a few bucks on marketing and advertising but they’re losing their shirts (pardon the pun) to generic merchandise. Arrow and Van Heusen are going the way of most major department stores
and there’s only one way to stop them from heading in that direction … a strong marketing campaign.  You have to spend the money to make the money or you can bend over and kiss your own brand name good-bye,” according to Jim Duhe.

Duhe and other senior members of the WWC are able to look back at the past and now forward to the future with an objective look, seeing the world as it once was– and what its become. But there’s a new generation of management emerging; educated on the experiences of a time gone by, armed only with standards that are no longer relevant to today’s society.

 

JC Penny continues to reinvent itself, updating products and the overall shopping experience to its consumers.

 

In a recent story Michael Kramer, president and chief executive officer of Kellwood Co at the time of his interview, admitted keeping on eye on reality shows, social media and reaching consumers in a new way. In his interview Kramer mentions shows like the Kardashians and the Jersey Shore and following celebrity news (newZ) including J.Lo’s divorce.

“When I read the story about Mr. Kramer I couldn’t help thinking how social media and connecting with consumer is the way business is conducted today, ” says Brian Weintraub of FLOW Formal.

Weintraub is the third generation of apparel makers dating back to when his grandfather and father began importing clothes manufactured off shore. Today, Weintraub and his family realize how important it is to connect with consumers, leveraging the use of social media, celebrities and promotions.

“We’re a branded label company; the forerunner of social networking when people connected by wearing quality clothes under recognized named like Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, etc. Now we’re following their lead and using the power of the internet to connect consumers with products through our stores,” says Weintraub.

Weintraub admits he’s in a conservative industry but also knows implementation of today’s new business approach is a must for continued success. Weintraub’s first project was signing TV reality celebrity, the Situation,  to connect with a new generation of formal wear users that no longer want to be told what to wear.

“Luckily we represent the best world-class names for the part of the market they speak to. Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Joseph Abboud spend an enormous amount of money to keep their names in front of consumers. By adding the Situation, we boosted our overall marketing visibility to millions of television viewers and internet followers that watch what Mike Sorrentino (the Situation) does,” says Weintraub.

Weintraub told eWedNewz he’s being asked for interviews by publications, both in and out of the trade, interested in his business views and the future of the formal wear business.

“Whatever happens the world is not going back to where it was; the internet is here to stay and the impact of new-age marketing will continue to grow at the expense of print and all other forms of (traditional) marketing,” feels Weintraub.

Since his interview, Michael Kramer was named Chief Operating Officer of JC Penny. Like countless other companies, Penny is a conservative, moderate-priced company that struggles to connect with a changing business environment. But unlike its competitors, JC Penny is revamping its reputation and including major changes that make it easy for consumers to buy product in stores– and online. According to About.com, JCP.com (JC Penny) is ranked number three behind Amazon and Avon.

Website and Wedding expert, Christine Boulton, told eWedNewz,” Years ago there was JC Penny and Sears; you were a customer of one or the other. They were both good product retailers at moderate prices. Today that still holds true but Penny has been able to reinvent themselves, their reputation and how they appeal to a new customer– Sears, in my opinion, has not. A lot has to do with moves to make their products more appealing and hiring people like Kramer. He worked with Abercrombie & Fitch so that part of what he learned goes with him to JC Penny.

It’s like everything else; if you have company management and leadership that can’t look past their glory days, they’re never going to be able to connect with what’s relevant in today’s world. That type of thinking no longer works; it hasn’t for some time,” feels Boulton.

 

Thoughts?

 

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2012

Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Joseph Abboud and Situation Samples on way to Stores

 

By Paul Pannone

 

The shipping department at FLOW Formal successfully turned around goods ordered by customers in less than a week, getting samples to stores in time for the busiest booking time of the year.

Flow management agrees there is never a good time for inventory but they felt early January is the least invasive time of the year. FLOW had the shipping department working overtime receiving in goods and shipping them to stores in time for wedding shows and promotions.

Samples of Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Joseph Abboud and the Situation will be hitting stores next week filling a backlog of demand created since last summer when lines broke. FLOW sales people have been out visiting stores and report favorable general feedback on tuxedos– specifically better branded products.

 

Samples of the Avalon arrives at stores next week. Tens of millions of viewers on television, the Internet and promotions by the Situation created demand for stores that supported the line. In a few weeks consumers will to visit stores in search of products they’ve heard about.

 

The men’s formal wear business got a major boost in promotions from Men’s Wearhouse and new advertising budgets from newcomer, like Jos. a Bank. Lower prices for local advertising allows regional and independent advertisers. Greater exposure and new deals announced in late 2011 will boost sales and lift a basically dead industry.

Formal wear sources say 2012 is one of the best years for formal wear rentals since demand peaked in 1999 for the 2000 millennium celebration. The tuxedo business suffered the loss of black tie events and dressing for celebrations after September, 2001 and never fully recovered.

 

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2011

Top eWedNewz Stories for 2011

 

By Paul Pannone

 

 

The top ten eWedNewz stories for 2011 are  embedded in the top twenty for the year. We omitted half the stories that involved the Situation because of his ability to tweet a headline and skew the numbers with his millions of followers. Starting from the number ten most read story here is what eWedNewz readers were interested in:

10- Philip Cornier Pushes the Right Men’s Formal Wear Look in Advertising Ex-Bridal Guide employee, Philip Cornier, ventured out on his own this season styling photo shoots, web sites and PR campaigns for new dress companies.

9- Ex-Encore Employee Condones Despicable Act; asks for understanding Ex-employee, Brian Lawrence, asked for understanding for the unexplained shutdown of Encore Studio that screwed vendors and customers who put their faith in the company.

8- Cutbacks and Layoffs Slated at Martha Stewart Readers wanted to know about the downsizing of the most famous turkey stuffer on the planet. Martha made headlines several times in 2011.

7- Vera Wang Project gets Rat Status from Carpenters Vera Wang got the cheese this year for hiring scabs to work on renovations to the company’s headquarters.

6- Priscilla of Boston to Shut Down In a virtual dead heat with the Vera Wang Rat Status story, it was the end of the road for the POB stores. Ironically the addition of Vera Wang products in David’s Bridal stores is credited for the shutdown.

 

 

 

5- Martha Stewart gets Out of the Wedding Website Business in a Nick of Time In a late year story Martha made top news by dumping her shares of Wedding Wire to a company called Catalyst. Sources close to the story told eWedNewz they’ve tried to sell the shares for some time.

4- More Major Wholesalers give FLOW Thumbs Up and Orders FLOW formal stepped up as the tuxedo world’s top supplier, leveraging major brands including Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Joseph Abboud. FLOW shocked the conservative tuxedo world with the addition of the Situation, infusing a contemporary name, style innovation and an edgy approach to an otherwise boring business.

3- Celebrity Planner Speaks Out Against Wedding Wire and other Wedding Directory websites Another late-year story posted in the top ten, as Samantha Goldberg revved up her keyboard, ranting and raving against how directory listing websites work. The story continues into 2012.

2- Conde’ Nast Boots Millie Martini Bratten from Brides In an effort to shake up their sagging sales at the news stands, Conde’ Nast ended their long-time relationship with Mille Bratten.

1- Encore Studios Shuts Down 2011 saw the end of several companies; among them was Encore Studios. A seemingly healthy, viable company closed its doors overnight, leaving vendors and brides stranded. The story was boosted by angry consumers looking for information about their pending orders.

 

 

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2012